Thursday, July 16
Serengeti
What a day! We traveled over 130 miles
on rough, bumpy dirt roads leaving the cold Ngorongoro
Crater wearing our mittens and jackets in the morning and
arriving in the hot, dry, dusty Serengeti in the late
afternoon. On our way to the Serengeti we visited a Maasai
village that is part of the Ngorongoro Conservation Project.
Normally you are not allowed to take pictures of the Maasai.
But there are a couple of villages where, for a fee, you are
treated to singing and dancing and are able to go into the
village, called a boma, and take pictures. I was led into the second chief's
house which had three rooms. The houses are all made from
cow dung and are called manyatas if the roofs are also made
from dung. When the houses have thatched roofs they are then
called bandas. His wife had a small fire going in the
bedroom where she was cooking beans. There was a very small
hole in the wall for the smoke to escape. They were drying gourds on top of the
roof. The roof also had a plastic covering over part of it
because El Nino had been hard on the cow dung
roof! Maasai men are generally very tall and
thin. They spent some time pointing to Scott because he is
also very tall. At one point they asked him to jump for them
because they had shown us their ability to jump high when we
first arrived while the women were singing. Scott showed
them how high he jumped lending support to the theory that
"white men can't jump"! I gave the children some of my extra
paper and pens. They were happy to have materials for
writing. After we shopped at the Maasai village
purchasing some beaded necklaces and ceremonial meeting
sticks called Orinkos (in Maasai language), we drove to
Olduvai Gorge for lunch. It was discovered by a German
scientist who, when collecting butterflies, fell into the
gorge. The Leakeys became interested when they saw some of
the fossils that the German scientist had discovered. It is
really called Oldupai after the Swahili name for the sisal
plant but was written incorrectly by the Germans. We toured
the small museum and took pictures of some of the fossils as
well as of the gorge below us. The vast Serengeti plain is home to
thousands of zebras, gazelles and wildebeest. We were lucky
to come upon several small prides of lions, one of which had
two cubs about three months old. It was fun to watch the
cubs relax, play and yawn so close to us.
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